On a Modest Patch of Lawn or Gravel, Cortaderia Can Stand like a Small Fountain of Foliage, Giving Height without Needing a Tree.

Dramatic Plumes That Catch The Light

Pampas grass is best known for its tall, feathery plumes that rise high above the foliage from late summer into autumn. These silky flower heads catch every scrap of light, looking almost silver in low sun and wonderfully atmospheric on misty mornings. Left on the plant through winter, they continue to give height and movement, especially in frost. In a typical UK garden, just one or two well‑grown clumps are enough to create a strong focal point and a sense of drama without needing complex planting around them.

  • Dramatic Plumes That Catch The Light
  • Architectural Clumps That Anchor A Border
  • Tough, Sun‑Loving Grass For Free‑Draining Soils

Cortaderia at a Glance:

Common name: Pampas grass

Latin name: Cortaderia

Size in UK gardens: Larger forms typically 2–3m tall including plumes and 1.5–2m wide; dwarf or compact varieties may stay nearer 1.2–2m tall and a little narrower.

Best position: A sunny, open spot with plenty of space around it and free‑draining soil; ideal for larger borders, lawns, banks and driveways.

Soil: Well‑drained, moderately fertile soil; happy on many lighter or sandy soils and fine on improved clay if it doesn’t sit waterlogged in winter.

Main interest: Striking plumes in late summer and autumn, plus bold fountain‑like mounds of foliage that give structure for much of the year.

Fragrance: Plumes are not generally grown for scent; appeal is mainly visual and textural.

Hardiness: Generally hardy in most UK gardens once established, especially in sunny, free‑draining positions; crown may be damaged by prolonged winter wet and severe cold combined.

Care level: Moderate – quite easy if you can offer sun, space and drainage, with some care needed when cutting back the sharp foliage.
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Cortaderia Care at a Glance:

Planting time: As container‑grown plants, Cortaderia can be planted in most months when the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged; spring and early autumn are usually easiest, giving roots time to establish before summer heat or winter cold.

Watering: Water regularly in the first season so the rootball and surrounding soil don’t dry out completely, especially in light, free‑draining soils. Once established, pampas grass is fairly drought‑tolerant but will form stronger clumps and better plumes if it’s not left bone dry for long periods.

Feeding: In reasonably fertile soil, an annual mulch of compost or well‑rotted manure around (not over) the crown is usually enough. On very poor, sandy ground, a light application of a balanced fertiliser in spring can help support good growth without making the plant too lush.

Pruning: Most of the “pruning” is really tidying – cutting out old plumes and dead or tatty foliage in late winter or early spring. Take care, as leaves are sharp; wear sturdy gloves and long sleeves, and avoid cutting too far into healthy new growth.

Winter: In most UK gardens, established plants simply sit through winter with their old plumes and foliage gradually weathering. A mulch over the root area helps, and avoiding heavy winter wet around the crown is more important than elaborate wrapping.

Varieties We Usually Stock

Availability is always changing, so please check with us if you have a particular variety in mind.

Acer campestre

Acer campestre 'Elsrijk'

Acer campestre 'Queen Elizabeth'

Acer campestre 'Carnival'

Frequently Asked Questions

Traditional forms of Cortaderia selloana can become large, often 2–3m tall including plumes and 1.5–2m across, so they do need a bit of elbow‑room. In a very small garden, a full‑sized pampas grass can feel overwhelming if it’s squeezed into a tight corner. However, there are more compact cultivars that stay smaller and can work in a modest plot if given a clear space and perhaps a gravel or lawn surround. If your garden is truly tiny, consider whether you can give it the space it needs to look intentional rather than cramped; if not, a smaller grass may be a better choice.

In most parts of the UK, including much of Cambridgeshire and East Anglia, Cortaderia is hardy once established, provided it is planted in sunny, well‑drained soil. The foliage and plumes may look weather‑beaten by late winter, but the crown usually survives well and sends up fresh growth in spring. The main enemy is not cold alone but cold combined with heavy, lingering wet around the base, which can cause rot. Planting on free‑draining soil or a slight slope, and avoiding very boggy spots, is often more important than elaborate wrapping.

The best time for the main tidy is late winter or very early spring. At this point the plumes and old leaves have done their job and new growth is just beginning. Put on sturdy gloves, long sleeves and eye protection – the leaves are sharp – and cut out old plumes and dead or badly damaged foliage close to the base, taking care not to slice the emerging green shoots. Some gardeners like to comb through the clump to remove loose material. There’s usually no need to cut the plant right down to the ground; leaving some structure helps protect the centre and looks better as new growth comes through.

Cortaderia really prefers to be in the ground, where its roots can spread and anchor a big clump, but smaller, compact varieties can be grown in large containers for a time. If you’d like to try this, choose a very generous, deep pot with drainage holes, fill it with a free‑draining loam‑based compost with some added grit, and stand it in a sunny, open spot. You’ll need to water more often than you would for a plant in the ground, and feed modestly in spring. Eventually, as the root system fills the pot, growth and plumes may diminish, at which point planting out into a bed or border is usually kinder.